Our fourth and final island in the Marquisses was Nuku Hiva. Baie de Taiohae, our first stop was a very large bay on the southern part of the island. The largest village on the island, we felt like it was a metropolis. Three whole restaurants, two groceries stores and even wireless internet (not a great deal at over $5 dollars an hour and slow, but still). Saturdays there was an early market, we are talking over and packing it all up by 6am. Fresh veggies and this is where are bread habit really got out of control. Criossants and pan au chocolat, not to mention creamy French butter. Atkins it's not around here.
After we escaped the bounds of retail and bread we shuffled east five miles to what is known as Daniel's Bay. A dramatic anchorage, we were surrounded by high cliffs and lush vegetation all around. We hiked to what was said to be one of the highest waterfalls in the world but on the way it was amazing to see all that was growing. Bananas, papayas, breadfruit,pamplemousse, limes, mangos and even pomegrantes were all around. Sounds like paradise? Well it pretty much is. We traded some German wine that we had been avoiding in our wine cellar for years for heaps of bananas, pamplemouse and limes we are still enjoying at least three weeks later.
After a stop back at Taiohae Bay for some provisioning we set off for the north end of Nuku Hiva. What we thought would be an easy four hour day sail turned into an all day event with squirrely winds , rough seas and squalls all day long. This made it all the better when we arrived in the flat calm Anaho Bay. One of the prettiest spots we had seen (and this is getting hard to distinguish) we set off the next day with Irie and Guava Jelly to hike over to the next bay which was known for the best restaurant in Nuku Hiva. After a glorious hike we feasted on fresh fish and goat curry before hiking back in the rain. It was welcome believe me as it is hot here in pardise. Luckily I had my backpack and walking stick so I could knock the mangos out of the trees on the way home. I have never been a big mango fan but I am learning because well, here they literally grow on trees. Next......the Tuamotos.